Summary of What Determines the Color in Acid Etch?
- Can you acid etch steel?
- What is the best acid for etching steel at home?
- Can hydrochloric acid etch steel?
- What chemical is used to etch steel?
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Acid etching steel involves using an acid (like ferric chloride, muriatic acid, or even vinegar) to chemically remove layers from the metal, creating designs, patterns, or a darkened finish, with a resist (like nail polish or vinyl) protecting areas you don’t want etched, requiring strict safety (gloves, eye protection, ventilation) and thorough cleaning. The process involves applying a resist, submerging the metal in the acid bath (often diluted), agitating, and then neutralizing and cleaning to reveal the etched pattern, with stainless steel needing stronger acids or surface prep due to its protective layer
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Materials Needed
Steel object: Knife, tool, plate, etc.
Etch Resist: Nail polish, Sharpie, vinyl stickers, electrical tape.
Acid: Ferric chloride (common for steel), diluted muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, or sulfuric acid.
Neutralizer: Baking soda and water.
Safety Gear: Rubber gloves, eye protection, respirator/mask, good ventilation.
Tools: Plastic container, Q-tips, brushes, water.
This video demonstrates how to prepare and apply an etch resist for acid etching steel:
1m
The Crafsman Steady Craftin
YouTube • May 10, 2021
Basic Steps (Using Ferric Chloride)
Clean the Steel: Thoroughly clean the metal to remove oils and dirt; this is crucial for an even etch.
Apply Resist: Apply your chosen resist (e.g., nail polish) in your design, protecting areas like pivot points on knives.
Prepare Acid: Mix ferric chloride with distilled water (e.g., 50/50) in a plastic container.
Etch: Submerge the steel and agitate the solution or gently brush the surface every 10-20 minutes to remove gunk and help the acid work.
Rinse & Neutralize: After desired depth is achieved (minutes to hours), rinse thoroughly and neutralize with baking soda solution to stop etching.
Clean & Finish: Remove the resist and clean the metal; apply oil for rust prevention.
Safety First!
Always wear gloves, eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area (fumes are irritating).
Have baking soda ready to neutralize spills.
Watch this video to see the acid etching process with a brush, including the necessary safety precautions:
1m
Wood By Wright How To
YouTube • Aug 18, 2022
Other Methods
Electro-Etching: Uses a saltwater solution and a battery charger for controlled, often artistic, results with a brush.
This process creates decorative finishes, highlights Damascus steel layers, or produces precise parts for various industries.
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Culverin
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Was browsing through BST and saw Livlif’s etched Miyabi.
Wow. Such an improvement over stock.
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/23288-Cool-Knives-For-Sale!-Fujiwara-Kotetsu-Miyabi
The muted damascus pattern was on the deciding factors against me picking up that Miyabi 600MCD I was asking about previously.
I didn’t know this could be done.
I always assumed the dark colors on the Hattori KD and the Tanaka Ironwood blades were from the metals used.
That got me thinking, how come parts of the knife get dark, and other stay light?
Ran a search and came across Dave’s 2 threads:
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/11803-Gallery-Hiromoto-AS-Full-Spa-Treatment
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/6474-Damascus-Knives-amp-Re-Etchng
From my recollection, the damascus patterns from claddings a secondary stainless with a higher nickel concentration?
So the nickel darkens?
And from the Hiromoto thread, it looks like the carbon steel darkens?
Can this be done with any blade to make it super dark?
Will this work on an Takamura Hana?
Wow. Such an improvement over stock.
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/23288-Cool-Knives-For-Sale!-Fujiwara-Kotetsu-Miyabi
The muted damascus pattern was on the deciding factors against me picking up that Miyabi 600MCD I was asking about previously.
I didn’t know this could be done.
I always assumed the dark colors on the Hattori KD and the Tanaka Ironwood blades were from the metals used.
That got me thinking, how come parts of the knife get dark, and other stay light?
Ran a search and came across Dave’s 2 threads:
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/11803-Gallery-Hiromoto-AS-Full-Spa-Treatment
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/6474-Damascus-Knives-amp-Re-Etchng
From my recollection, the damascus patterns from claddings a secondary stainless with a higher nickel concentration?
So the nickel darkens?
And from the Hiromoto thread, it looks like the carbon steel darkens?
Can this be done with any blade to make it super dark?
Will this work on an Takamura Hana?